草藥染色紡織技術的发展 Using Herbal medicine to instead of chemical in textile design



Jingyi Cheng 今年畢業於切爾西藝術學院(UAL)織品設計 textile 碩士學位。

Jingyi 的畢業作品受到當今環境污染的啟發,認為在如今的當代社會,人們是否健康已經不能夠通過自身有沒有疾病來衡量了,健康代表的更多的是人的精神狀態和生活環境。

由於環境污染和生活壓力的影響,越來越多的人處在不健康的環境中。因此,人們希望有個安全的辦法來減少和預防疾病的產生。用中藥製作的室內軟裝是個可以適當緩解人類疾病並且幫助人體抵禦日常生活中病菌的方法。

人們開始對“工業文明”進行反思,許多紡織企業在發展的過程中將生態環保提到了工作首位。正是因此,具有環保特性的草木染,作為化學染料和化學助劑的替代者,逐漸回歸到人們的視野中。



過去提起草木染,給人的印象無非是 “小而美”的工藝作坊。然而時至今日,其不含化學染料、生態環保的特性使它越來越受到消費者及設計師們的青睞與追捧。近些年,草木染的規模、產能及影響力都有了歷史性的飛躍。

In modern society, human health cannot be measured by disease or not, people more about the health of mental state and surrounding. Due to the effect of pollution and life pressure, more and more people are living in an unhealthy environment. People expect to have a safe way to reduce and prevent diseases. The soft decoration, which made by the traditional Chinese medicine, can be a method to appropriate mitigation people's illness and fend off the germs in daily human life.


草本植物作為一種廣泛使用的廉價材料,已在發展中國家廣泛種植。和西藥相比,中藥是更為安全和易使用的天然產品。中國使用中藥在保健方面有悠久的歷史並且醫療效果經受住了時間的考驗。由於草藥具有易分解、易吸收的特性,和中藥對人體和環境的低副作用,人們不僅把植物作為藥物還作為染色劑使用。草藥不僅是植物的一個分支,並且具有植物的特性。無論是盆景還是園林綠化,都對居住環境的美化起著重要的作用。

Herbs, as a typical and cheap material used in a wide range, and has been planted in the area in developing counties. It is natural products that safe and secure to use than western medicine. China has a long history of using herbs in health care, and the medical effect has stood the test of time.

Due to the herbs have the properties of being readily decomposed and absorbed, the low side effect of the herbal medicine both on human and environment cause people not only use it in medicine but also as dye material all the time. Herbal medicine is not only part of plants, but also have the characteristics of plants. No matter the herbs as the potted landscape or landscaping, it plays an essential role of decorating the living environment.


這個課題不僅僅是基於拓展中藥的使用範圍和打破常規的使用方式,而且專注於如何在設計中使用自然的材料代替化學材料來建立健康的生活環境。整個設計包含兩個主要的步驟。首先,Jingyi 使用草藥染色。

作為常用染料的中藥,在正常高溫下具有抗炎殺菌作用。使用藥物染色可以將這些屬性留在纖維上。通過兩種或三種不同藥物的過染,紗線具有綜合藥效。染色後,大量的藥物殘渣將會被拋棄。但殘渣仍有使用價值,因為草藥的功效並未耗盡。因此,我把染過的紗線和廢渣結合起來製做紡織品。



This project, not only based on broadening the range of application and break the normal mode of using traditional Chinese medicine but also focus on how to use natural materials instead of a chemical in textile design to build a healthy living environment. There are two main steps in my design. Firstly, I use herbs to dye the nature fibre yarn.

The most Chinese medicine which used as the dyes have anti-inflammatory and sterilize effect in normal and high temperature. Using the medicines to dye can leave that property on the fibre. Through the over-dye with two or three different medicines, the yarn will have the comprehensive efficiency. After dyeing, the amount used of medicine will be thrown. But the medicine still has value in use because the efficacy of herbs was not exhausted. I combine the dyed yarn and wastes to create my textile.


在技巧上,Jingyi 主要結合了針織與造紙兩個技術。我的樣本設計靈感來自於菸霧、人們的生活條件和人體器官。大量的煙霧是生活在不健康環境中的人們的原因之一。顆粒通常為圓形、三角形和圓柱形,體積小、體積大。在設計過程中使用了重複和重組不同類型和形式的煙霧粒子的方法。通過混合和匹配,可以創建新的形狀和情緒。當微粒進入人體時,會引起許多疾病,破壞人體器官。結合彎曲形狀的器官與顆粒點狀創造視覺對比。

另一個元素來自於人們的日常生活。在街上進行拍照,記錄人們在煙霧或污染中的社會活動和生活軌跡。這些照片反映了人們在污染來臨時的想法和行為,以及人們如何保護自己。在煙霧中,人們看不清所有的東西,污染物的阻隔會改變物體的比例。
  
The inspiration of my samples design comes from the smog, people's living conditions and human's organ. The massive particles of pollution are one of the reasons for people who live in an unhealthy environment. The particles usually round, triangle, and cylindrical shapes, small and large quantity. The method that I used different types and forms of smog's particles in my designing process is repetition and recombination. Through the mix and match, the new shapes and mood can be created. When particles come into the human body, it caused many illnesses and broke the body organ.

I combined the curving shape of agencies with the punctiform of particles to create the visual contrast. The other element I used comes from people daily life. I took the pictures on the street to record the people's activities in smog day or pollution. Those photos show what people thinking and doing when the pollute coming and how the people do to protect themselves straightly. In smog, people couldn' t see everything clearly, and the pollutants barrier will change the proportion.





整個作品可以達到零污染的效果,從染色到廢渣的利用,可以形成一個鏈條式的環保可持續性創作方式。為了人類社會的可持續發展,減輕自然壓力和人類生存環境是十分重要的。政府試圖通過關閉工廠和車輛限制規則來減少空氣污染,但是,建立一個長期的良好環境的關鍵是引導人們如何減少污染的足跡而不是停止生產。可持續設計的研究將是未來人居環境的一種趨勢和方法。

For the sustainable development of human society, it is vital to reduce the pressure of nature and human living environment. Government try to reduce the air pollution by closing the factory and vehicle restriction rule, however, the critical things for build an excellent long-term climate is guided people how to reduce the footprint of pollution instead of stop producing. The study of making sustainable design will be a trend and method for the further living environment.





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Project Designer:Jingyi Cheng
Special Thanks: Jingyi Cheng



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